


SCIENTIFIC DRESS-CatriNG 

Practically Illustrated, 



-AND- 



Mathematlcally Demonstrated. 



THR 



Franco-Prussian Mode 

"METHOD." 

Patented June 6, 1882; September 29, 1885; April 19, 1887. 



SIXTH INSTRUCTIVE EDITION 

—BY- 

H. HYERS JHCKSON, 

Inventor and Patentee, 

202 STATE STREET, ROOMS 5 & 6. 



Chicago, III. 



Copyright 1888, by H. Ayers Jackson. 



Copyright 188S by H. Ayers Jackson. All rights reserved. 



TABLE OF MEASURES. 

The annexed table shows the average proportional measures 
for regular formed persons, including the chest and width of 
back measures (both combined); the average armseye for a given 
bust measure, the average shoulder measure and the proper dis- 
tance between the top waist and the tinder-arm lines. No rule 
can be relied on to determine the chest or width of back measures 
separately, except by carefully measuring from arm to arm with 
the measuring tape, as all forms differ in that respect. The 
chest and width of back measures constitute a trifle more than 
two-thirds of the bust measure. The armseye diameter a trifle 
less than one-third. The three measures combined equal the 
exact bust measure. 

I will here state that column 4 represents only a medium 
shoulder; a high shoulder will require from one-fourth to one- 
half inch less distance than is given in column 4, and an extra 
sloping shoulder will require from one-fourth to one-half inch 
more distance. The length of the shoulder measure, if correctly 
taken, will be a sufficient guide to place a high or low shoulder 
when parties properly understand our " Method," also in deter- 
mining the amount of "stoop" in bent forms, enabling the cutter 
to give the proper shape to any pattern, whatever the form, 
u except positive deformities." 



<S> <S) J. 


No. 1, 


No. 2. 


No. S. 


No 4. 


No. 5. 


OS* 


© O <U 


Size of Bust 
Measure. 


The Chest and 

width of Back 

Measure both 

comhined. 


Average Arms- 
eye Measure. 


Average dis- 
tance between 
the top Waist 
and the under 

arm Lines. 


The Average 
Length of 
Shoulder 
Measure. 


P - 

© tr 

ct-P^ 


CO N S- 

©•£ S^ 


23 


,.i6y 2 


10 


5M 

6H 

....5% 


\\\\'.'iii':.\V.\ 


O 


^ 5° 


24.... 


..:.n% 


lO 1 ^ 


ggEL 

CD (t> 


£a 8 


25 

26 


.... ..18y 2 . .. 


11 


OS 


19 ... 


11VS 


....6 


4K 




27 .... 


19^.... 


11% 


....6% 




28. .. 


.20 


12 


.....654 

....6% 


4%.. ... 


< ZL 

CD P^ 


2^3 e • 


29 


20 x /2 


......12% 

12J£ 


' O 


*8 U 2? 
3°J ' 


30... \ .. 


.21 


.....eH 

....6% 


5 


a- 


31... 


21% 


13 


>-i 


.. . 32 


22 1 / 2 .... 


13*/ 2 

14 


....7 

7 X A 


• ■ .514 


ft 


© £§ 


33 


23 


P 


Q.2 - ' 


34... 


.. .24 


I414 


.....7 1 / 2 


5H 


SB 


8£ a 


35 


24^ 


15 


.....7% 




ft gs ' 


36... 


25 


......15% 


8 

SM 

..... sy±.... 
s\ 


5% 

['.'.'.'.6 ".'''.'. 


O 

3 


2 S P" ' 


...37 


25H 


16 

16 l / 2 


38... . 


26 


tr 


©■Jp ' 


39 . 


26 x /2- 


17 


O 
p 




40 

41 . 


27 .... 


.. ...17M 


8%. .... 


6M 




. 27V4 


17 y 2 . .. 


8% 

.....8y 2 


CD 


42 


28 .... 


17% 


M. 


d SS '. 


43 


28^. 


18 


.....8 l A 


2L 


44 


...29 .. 


18K 


8V4 


6^...... 





45 . 


29y<i. 


.. ....18V6 


8% 


OR 


'0 g p 


46. 

47 


... ...30 

31 . 


18%..... 

19 


8%..... 

8% 


6% 




ftO • 


....48 


3iy 2 


19M 1 


...8% 


6% 


+3 ao 







Note.— After the measures are taken and before the customer leaves compare them with the 
table of average measures, and should they vary much make sure they are right before they leave. 




To Measure and Draft our Graduated Hip Rule. 



e around the largest p.m of the hip close. 
e down from Waist line to ascertain at \vl 



=TO DRAFT.= 

^presents the edge of goods: 



NOTE.-Front Line B 
In from edge of goods. 

Whenever the Hip shall measure 20 
large Nos. 1 and 4 — 2 inches each, Nos, 
No. 5 — 1 inch, as shown on draft. 

For 23 inches difference, make Nos 

S—1% inches, and No. 5— x}4 inches. 

For 26 inches difference, make Nos. 
3 and 5 — 2 inches each. 

For 17 inches difference, make Nos. 
3— 1% inches, and No. 5—1 inch. 

For 14 inches difference, make No. 

1 inch each, and No. 5— J^ inch. 

For 11 inches difference, make Nos. 
No. s-tf inch. 

«" Whenever more than 26 Inches enlar 



inches more than the Waist, en- 
2 and $—l}& inches each, and 

. 1 and 4 — 2 l / 4 , inches, Nos. 2 and 

1 and 4 — 2*4 inches, and Nos. 2, 

1 and 4 — 1*4 inches, Nos. 2 and 

1 -1 '4 inches, Nos. 2, 3 and 4— 

1, 2, 3 and 4—34 inch each, and 



SACKS, CLOAKS, 



Etc. 

d.irgemei 



Whenever 2 Back Pieces are used, a 20-inch « 

is. 1 and 2 to be 2 1 /, inches each, and No. 3 — 2 inches; then enlarge 
diminish each No. % inch for every 3 inches variation from the 20 

hes difference. 



0RESS -/Y\AKERS OF T^MERICA. /{\ 

IN these days of progress, as the steam engine has superseded 
§K the old six-horse stage coach, the electric light is taking the 
JL place of the old oil lamp, the lightnings of heaven become 

the passive servant of man to carry intelligence, so correspond- 
ing progress has been made in other arts, among which is the 
application of geometry as embodied in the Franco-Prussian 
Mode, which is becoming the slogan that will break in pieces 
and trample in the dust the old rusty ideas of cutting and fitting 
ladies' and gentlemen's costumes. The scientific application of 
strictly mathematical principles can be found in no other system 
of dress cutting. The many charts claiming to be French 
Tailor Systems, and improvements on S. T. Taylor System, are 
frauds upon their face. Any form of diagram, on pasteboard 
with perforated outlines, are simple charts or grades, but not 
systems. 

After nearly seven years' contest in the Patent Office, we hold 
three patents covering the vital principles embodied in our sys- 
tem, and all persons are warned against trespass upon said 
principles under penalties. 

This system wherever tested comes out ahead. It will fit 
forms that cannot be fitted by any other system. The Hip Rule 
is complete, and the Sleeve the only practical one ever invented. 
Costumes cut by this system assume a more easy and graceful 
appearance, one-half of your time is saved as no changes are 
necessary, your anxiety becomes a pleasure, as you guess at 
nothing. No dress-maker or tailor can afford to be without it. 

The Franco-Prussian Mode is sold as follows: 

Single (including Hip Rule and Sleeve), with full instructions . . . $20 00 
" " " without " " ... 10 00 

Three Modes at one time including Instruction Book 21 00 

Six " " " " " " « 40 00 

Twelve " " " " " " 75 00 

Price of our Limited Geometrical System or Lightning cal- 
culator with Sleeve (chart form) : 

Single with Sleeve and printed instructions ' $ 5 00 

Single both Sleeve and Hip Rule, full system instructions 10 00 

One dozen including Sleeve and printed instructions 20 00 

Agencies for special territory on advantageous terms. 

Persons sending orders from a distance should always enclose 
a Post-office order for the amount wanted; but if sent C. O. D., 
at least $i.oo should be enclosed with the order to ensure the 
express charges. Address all orders to 

H. AYERS JACKSON, 

Inventor and Patentee, 
202 State Street, Chicago, 111. 

Rooms S and 6. 



THE SCIENCE OF PRACTICAL DRESS CUTTING. 

By H. AYERS JACKSON, Chicago, III. 

This is a world of wonders, object after object meeting our 
vision that to our understanding at first seems unfathomable. 
Every thing seems to be surrounded with mystery. But the 
restless, inquisitive mind of man is not content to remain in dark- 
ness; he rallies all his energies to unravel these mysteries; he 
commences theorizing, weighing the probabilities surrounding 
the subject, investigating all the circumstances in order to gather 
one great truth, which when proven, becomes the initial point in 
unraveling other great truths, until the entire subject is analyzed 
and laid open to his understanding, and the problem stands out 
in itself as one great truth, undeniable, unquestioned. In this 
manner theory and science go hand in hand, to analyze and 
bring to light the hidden mysteries surrounding us.- In this man- 
ner all solid truths are demonstrated. Scientific analysis is the 
great motive power that lays a solid foundation for progress in 
all the arts and sciences of the present or future generations. A 
foundation of truths practically demonstrated is the only true base 
on which to stand where positive results are required. To rely 
upon theory under such circumstances would be sheer madness. 
To draw a true line on the object, is always necessary to make a 
successful shot. 

From time immemorial, the art of dressing the human form 
has occupied the minds of all classes, from the lowest serf to 
those occupying the highest stations of life, and many of the best 
minds have occupied their time in devising methods, means and 
ways to adorn the architecture of the human form in such a man- 
ner that the artistic beauty of the outline should appear to the 
greatest advantage. In order to excel at the present day in the 
art of tailoring or dress-making, requires the highest order of 
architectural mechanism, together with a high order of artistic 
discrimination as to tone, color, outline and complexion of the 

(3) 



person of the wearer, always bearing in mind " that it is not what 
one wears, but how worn," that brings out the highest order of 
artistic excellence, or its reverse. With these few remarks, I will 
proceed to state that of the many ways devised to cut garments, 
one great truth has been too much neglected, or has been found too 
complex to handle scientifically. The human form is a truncated 
cone, in mathematics or mechanics, and must be handled as such. 
Should we desire to fit all its peculiar outlines, we must resort to 
solid mathematical and mechanical principles in order to succeed. 
Our tools should be the best that can be devised in order to bring 
every outline in its proper place to avoid tension. Each outline 
of a pattern should conform to the shape of the cone it is intended 
to fit. The cone of the human form is a series of constant and 
incessant changes, no two being found alike; similarities fre- 
quently occur as in the facial outline, but we have never found 
any two measuring alike. Hence the tools required to meet 
this difficulty should be susceptible of meeting those changes in 
accordance with the measures, which should be scientifically 
taken over each variation of the form to be fitted. In order for 
any cutter, whether for ladies 5 or gentlemen's wear, to excel, it is 
necessary to closely observe the peculiarities of the form, then to 
measure it carefully over every protuberance and depression, 
taking into consideration any flatness or extra fullness, at any 
point. Then carefully noting down each and every measure as 
a whole and from each point requiring seams; then with the 
most scientific tools obtainable lay out the draft on paper, cloth 
being entirely too flexible to rely on. Obtain the exact outline 
of every seam and the waist line, exactly as the measure calls 
for; when cutting the pattern on cloth the best results are 
obtained by cutting the pattern straight on the goods, that being 
the strongest and firmest direction of the cloth, there is much 
less liability of the garment becoming unshapely in a short time 
on wearing. When cut on the bias as many of the French 
modistes are in the habit of doing, yon may obtain on easy, ele- 
gant-fitting costume when first worn, but our experience has 
been that in a short time they are drawn out of shape, and are 
soon thrown aside. Americans as a class are utilitarian; they 
desire a garment so constructed that it will wear out if necessary 
without becoming unshapely. So as a first principle, cut all 

(4) 



patterns straight on the cloth, the fitting can be made fully equal 
to bias cutting, and much superior in the long run. All very 
soft woolen goods need great care in properly sustaining each 
seam, and especially the armseye and shoulder seams, before 
attempting to baste them up; a good plan is to use a strong 
thread at first by running it around the shoulder and armseye in 
such a manner that it will prevent its stretching larger than the 
cut pattern, which should be used as a guide. Many garments 
are ruined for want of this very necessary precaution before bast- 
ing. When basting, commence by first securing the outlines at 
bottom of waist, and then baste evenly, running any surplus up 
into the armseye and down to the bottom. In this way you 
hold the positive square of the goods when cut by our method. 
Then use great care in passing the needle evenly through the 
outlines on both sides of the goods same as the pattern indicated, 
and never allow any gathering or unevenness in any seam about 
the garment. 



JACKSON'S TAILORING INSTITUTE, 

202 State Street, Chicago. 

SEPARATE DEPARTMENTS FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN. 



The Gentlemen's Department affords the highest class 
of Scientific Instructions in Cutting Gentlemen's Garments by 
the most approved Methods. 

The Ladies' Department has a record never equalled for 
producing an easy, artistic fitting garment by actual measure on 
all forms without alteration. This Method adapts itself to all 
styles, the French Bias Pattern included. 

All Methods used by us are actual measure, and all calculations 
and tools strictly mathematical, which cannot be said of any other 
Method of cutting. We are satisfied that thirty-three per cent, 
of time can be saved in learning and afterwards in cutting and 
fitting. Our Methods are practical and thorough, our terms 
most reasonable and satisfaction guaranteed. 

(5) 



^•Jackson's Tailoring Instituted 

202 State Street, Chicago. 



TAILORS, JOURNEYMEN AND YOUNG MEN OF AMERICA. 

If it is an object to procure a Tailor System that will produce 
a Perfect, Artistic Fitting Garment, from the Least Ma- 
terial and in the Shortest Space of Time, JACKSON'S 
Scientific Tailor System will fill the bill Grandly. This 
system is founded on solid Mathematical Principles, and a Set 
of Mathematical Tools have been invented to do the intricate 
work always found in making artistic and correct drafts for any 
garment, thus doing away with all theoretical calculations and 
saving a vast amount of trouble. Thirty-three per cent, of time 
is saved in learning and afterwards in cutting. This is no ex- 
periment, as thorough tests have been made by placing the 
garments on customers during the past 6 years, and with 
the most eminent success with both ladies' and gentlemen's 
garments. No practical tailor has ever been able to point 
out one error in this method. It can be used with equal ad- 
vantage by the custom cutter or the wholesale manufacturer, 
as the measures reach all forms to a certainty. For stock goods 
the grading is the most perfect in existence. This system is 
much easier understood and learned in much less time than the 
old theoretical methods. The mathematical tools do the work 
sure and positive. The measures are taken over the form in such 
a manner that all forms (not positive deformities) can be fitted 
without alteration. We are satisfied that no Other system can 
do this. 

Our school is open for instruction from 9 to 12 A. M. and 1 
to 4 P. M. each day (Sundays excepted.) 



ON THE FOLLOMING T6RMS; 
A Complete Course for new beginners, to learn Gentlemen's 

Garment Cutting, - $100 oo 

To Practical cutters, (system included), for Gentlemen's Garment Cutting, 50 00 

" " " additional " Ladies' " " 20 00 

" " " Coat alone, - - - - 30 00 

" " "" Pants ------ 20 00 

" " " Vest " - - - 15 00 

System *and Outfit seperately with Instruction Book - - 30 00 

Terms Cash, Invariably in Advance. Parties from a distance can 
secure board at $6.00 and upward per week. 

Terms for Ladies to learn Practical Dress, Cloak and Wrap Cutting, 
Waist, Hip and Sleeve systems included, also Basting and putting 
on Garments properly, $5-00 to $20.00, as to proficiency desired. 

No limit of time for new beginners, as we desire them to become con- 
fident of their ability to succeed before leaving. 

I1TVESTIG -A-TIE. 

(6) 



Franco- Prussian Mode Measures. 



Dress Makers should bear in mind that the Franco-Prussian 
Mode Draft is made from Actual Measure for Cutting Dresses, 
Cloaks, Basques, etc.; and our Scientific Tailor System is for 
Cutting Gents' Coats, Vests, Pants, etc. ; hence the necessity of 
always getting correct and proper measures / then place them 
on paper to avoid mistakes, placing the name of the party at the 
head of the measures, to avoid substituting the measures of 
wrong party. 

When using the " Mode," never Measure any Person until 
you see they are dressed as they desire to be when wearing the 
garment to be fitted. In case artificial fullness is wanted, 
supply it. 

1. The Bust Measure should be close. Stand fronting the 
party being measured; carry the tape straight across the 
Back, just over the shoulder blades, then bring it around 
over the fullest part of the Bust; now hold with thumb and 
finger, and turn the party around and see they stand in a 
perfectly .natural position, the arms dropping at the sides, 

• etc., and that your tape is properly placed; then, without 
drawing too tight, ascertain your measure. 

2. Waist. — Measure tight around the smallest part of the 
Waist. 

3. Chest. — Measure close from arm to arm, from where the 
arm joins the shoulder, and across top of chest. (Deter- 
mine where the arm joins the body by raising and lowering 
the arm.) 

4 Width of Back. — Measure close from arm to arm, above 
the shoulder blade. 
Note. — Place a firm belt around the waist before taking length measures. 

(7) 



5- Length of Back. — Place your tape on the top bone of the 
spinal column, then measure down as low as the form will 
admit. 

6. Under Arm. — Place the end of the tape under the arm, 
" easy," then carry it down to bottom of belt. 

[jggf This is an important measure, and too much care cannot 
be taken in having it just right, and you should always see that 
the top of the tape comes just to the muscle under the arm as it 
joins the body, never too close up, or too slack, making it too 
long or too short. 

7- Armseye. — Carry the tape under the arm and over the 
point of shoulder close, being careful to not measure surplus 
goods. 

8. Shoulder. — Place the end of tape as high on the neck as 
you desire to carry the dress, then down to point of shoulder. 

9. Length of Front. — Place the end of tape on top bone of 
spinal column, then carry it down front to bottom of belt, 
close, noting at same time the proper height for the dart. 

10. Hips. — Measure close around the hips; then measure from 
the bottom of the belt to the most prominent hip enlarge- 
ment, and note the distance whether 4, 5, or 6 inches below 
the belt. 

In presenting our 6th edition of Instructions for Drafting by 
our u Franco-Prussian Mode," we have endeavored to incorporate 
all the new ideas that time and experience have shown the 
necessity of cultivating, in order to produce the most satisfactory 
results. In measuring, drafting and cutting by our method : 

The measures used in the lesson draft in back part of book, 
are those of a medium.sized, well balanced form, and are the 
measures you are referred to in the following instructions. 

Measures for all forms, or sizes, are used in the same manner, 
except when deformities exist, as shown by map in back of book 
representing stooping forms, high, low and medium shoulders, 
etc., which see for deformities , 

(8) 



RULES TO DRAFT 
BY THE FRANCO-PRUSSIAN MODE. 



1. Draw lines i to 3, across top of paper, and 1 to 22, width 
of rule, in from left hand edge of paper. 

2. Select the scale indicating the Bust measure. Measure its 
length 1 to 2 and 2 to 3, then 4 to 5 and 5 to 6, then draw 
line 2 to 5 and 3 to 6. 

Note. — Find armseje measure (j-S l A) m column 3, first page of book, the 
figure to the right, in column 4, is 8, which means 8 inches between the top 
waist and under arm lines. 



Apply the table distance 8, (for 15^ inch armseye), 1 to 7, and 
3 to 8, then apply the under arm measure 8 inches, 7 to 4 
and 8 to 6, then draw lines 7 to 8 and 4 to 6; and you have 
four rectangles or squares. 

Apply y 2 °f chest measure {11%) 7 to 9, apply y 2 of width 
of back measure 8 to 10, then double tape 9 to 10, and mark 
19; measure ^ inch each side of 19, at A and B; — 
Note. — All scale numbers are designated on the draft thus, (7). 

Distance t to 1 1 is 6 of scale, 1 to 12 is 5 of scale, 2 to 13 is 
3 of scale, 3 to 14 is 4 of scale, 10 to 15 is 3 of scale, 
15 to 16 is 7 of scale, then draw width of scale above 15 
to 26; 9 to 17 is 4 of scale, 17 to N is width of scale; 

Draw Shoulder lines 12 to 13, and 14 to 16, apply shoulder 
measures 12 to 18, and 1^ inch more 14 to 16. 

(9) 



7. Place front neck point of Mode on line i at n, and form 12 
to 11; place front armseye form at 18, bottom resting at A 
and N, then draw 18 through N to A, then turn the Mode 
face down, and with same curve draw 16 through 26 to B, 
then measure the armseye, if more than y 2 inch too large, 
or *^ inch too small, raise or lower lines 7 to 8 and 4 to 6 
y 2 inch for every inch desired changed. 

Note. — Before changing at this point, ascertain whether the width of 
chest and width of back combined correspond with table in col. 2 in front of 
book. 

8. Measure y% inch 6 to D, then measure 3^ inches 3 to 20; 
draw 20 through D to 21, apply length of back measure 3 
to 21, draw 21 to 25; mark 3 of scale 21 to 25, then measure 
1 inch 25 to 33; place front neck point of Mode at 26 and 
draw to 25, place black margin of Bust form at 26 and draw 
to 33; measure ^ inch 26 to J, measure 4 inches 26 to H, 
place front neck point at J, and draw to H ; measure y 2 inch 
33 to K, draw H to K and S, then curve }& inch C to 21 ; 
measure 26 to 25, and apply J to S. 

9. The distance 3 to 14 and 12 to 22, is the length of front 
measure, apply the height of dart measure at 23, before 
moving the tape, measure 7 to 23, apply 1 inch less 19 to 
24; draw 24 to 23 and W, draw 19 to 5, 5 to M is ^ inch, 
form P to M, draw M to 22 and Y. 

10. Measure 1 inch 23 to W, ^ inch U to X, % inch 22 to Y, 
place end of scale at 23, and mark 5 and 12 for top of darts ; 
place end of scale at 22 and mark 3, 5, 7, 9, 12 and 15 for 
bottom of darts, then draw straight lines 5 to 5 and 12 to 
12, for centre of darts. 

11. Find dart form on Mode, place the letter R in the word 
Jorm, at 27 and draw through 29, place at 28 and draw 

through 31, turn the form over and with same curve draw 
27 through 30, and 28 through 32; place square end of bust 
form at 11 and draw to W, place dart point at W and draw 
W X Y. 

(10) 



12. Place end of tape at 19, double to F, and mark G; measure 
1^ inch G to E, place end of tape at 5, double to K, and 
mark 34; measure ^ mcn 34 t° L, draw V through E, and 
34 to S S, draw I one inch above 24, then draw I through 
L to T, place rule at 5 and S, draw S S to S, draw 5 to T, 
1^ inch below S S ; with dart form curve out ^ inch I 
through Z to S S. 

13. Waist measure is 25 inches, find J^ ; place 12 y 2 inches on 
tape {end to left J) at 21, then measure out 21 to 25, then S 
to S S, then T to 5, then M to 32, then 31 to 30, and 29 to 
Y. 

Note. — Should the tape pass Y, % or % inch, it would show the pattern 
that much small; should it come inside of Y, it would show the amount too 
large. The remedy would be to enlarge or diminish the spaces L to 34, M 
to 5 and then the darts until the proper measures are met. The spaces 6 to 
D, 25 to 33, and 33 to K should never be made less except for children. 

Should the Waist be 13 to 16 inches smaller than the Bust measure, in- 
crease the distance 6 to D }£ to y inch; 25 to 33, % to K inch; 33 to K, y 
to y '■> 34 to L, y to y % ; M to 5, fy to y 2 inch, then increase the darts to take 
up the surplus. 



CLOAK, COAT OR JACKET DRAFT 

Shown b}' diagram in back part of book, is drafted the same as 
the Bask, except there may be 2 pieces instead of 3 pieces, in the 
Back patterns, and one instead of two darts. 

In this draft the back at waist-line may be made 5 or 6 scale 
numbers as shown, and 5 inches wide, 10 inches below waist-line. 
When applying the waist measure (say 25 inches), take J^, 12^ 
inches of tape, between the thumb and finger of right hand, end 
to the left, measure out 21 to 25, then S to 5, then measure the 
balance M to O, (at end of tape). The distance O to Y is width 
of dart, (2^ inches,) which place equal distance each side of dart 
centre, as shown on diagram. 

(11) 



The Hij) Draft is also shown on diagram. The Cloak and 
other loose garments are made from this draft, by leaving out 
the dart, and drawing a straight line as dotted on front of 
diagram. If a double breasted garment is wanted, add 2)/ 2 inches 
more or less (as to fancy,) front of dotted lines, then place button 
lines, equal distance each side of dotted lines. The Hips can be 
cut any desired length or style. 

Note. — When cutting patterns, leave ^ to ^ inch margin outside 
of pattern lines, Y to M, 21 to 3, and 14 to 16. For front pattern, cut Y to 
5, then 5 on straight line through 19 to 2; then cut 21 to 3, next 3 to 14, 14 
to 16, 16 to 26, V and 19; then cut 21 to 25, 25 to 26, for back pattern; next 
cut on straight line S S to V, now place 26 at J and measure the back and 
sidebody carefully into each other, correcting S, if necessary. Then place 
line I together, also S S and T together, hold firm and draw a straight line 
5 to S, as a correction line for waist; then cut S S fo S, and 5 to T. 

l4. When cutting lining for front, place line 1 to 22, 3 inches 
in from edge of goods, and waist line 9 inches up from end 
of goods; pin firm, being careful to have the goods smooth 
under the pattern, then trace on line 18 to 12, 12 to 11, and 
through W X and Y, as shown on diagram, then trace the 
darts, also M to Y, and 19 through 24 and P, to M as 
shown. For under arm piece trace 19 through 24 straight 
to 5, then V, through I, straight to T, then 5 to T. For 
Side Body y trace V through I, and Z to S S, then J through 
H and K to S, then S S to S. For Back piece, trace 3 
through C and D to 21, then 14 to 16, 16 to 26, and 26 to 
25, then 25 to 21. 

Note. — The Hip extensions are to be traced as shown on diagram at the 
same time as the above mentioned patterns. See Hip Rule Diagram in front 
of book. 




(12) 



NOTICE. 



Infringement on the Franco-Prussian Mode of Dress-cutting 
is extensively practiced. 

We have brought a large number of suits in the United States 
courts to enjoin parties using infringements on our " Scales" 
and other Tools, used in our "Method" for cutting Ladies'* and 
Gentlemen } s Garments. We hold 77 Copyrights and 3 Patents^ 
dating from 1878 to the present year, which cover our Scales and 
other Mathematical tools used in our patented method and means 
for Drafting and Cutting Clothing, and also all the instructive 
printed matter used in our book and drafts, to date : We shall 
continually bring suits against all parties detected in using in- 
fringements on our Scales, Tools or Printed Matter, Suits now 
lie against parties using Kellogg's French Tailor System; 
Worth's Perfect Tailor System, by Walkie and others. No one 
is safe in using any scale not made by us, where the divisions in 
No. 36 Scale is about 3/% of one inch, as our patents cover such 
scale. 

Note. — Worthless trash is never counterfeited. 

H. AYERS JACKSON, 

202 State St., Room 5 

CHICAGO. 



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The Inventor and Patentee of the " Franco-Prussian Mode," 
the Scientific Tailor System, the Lightning Calculator, together 
with the " Method of and the Means for Drafting and Cutting 
Clothing," patented June 6th, 1882, Sept. 29th, 1885 and April 
19th, 1887, which is used therewith, invites intelligent and 
scientific criticisms as to their true merits, and thinks he does not 
overstate facts when he says no other system for cutting clothing 
has a "Method" sufficiently unique to admit of being patented ; 
or that will stand a scientific mathematical or mechanical test 
without being found entirely deficient in many particulars. Our 
"Method" deals with facts, without theory, literally photograph- 
ing mathematically, the form with the aid of proper measures 
and the scientific instruments invented for the purpose, and which 
are used in making the draft. This "Method" was patented 
under the express showing that it was "the only Method ever 
invented whereby the correctness of one measure could be proven 
by the other measurements, as applied in the draft," and the 
"only system susceptible of fitting all forms without change." 
For artistic excellence, simplicity, time and material saving it is 
100 years in advance of all other systems. The Franco-Prussian 
Mode is adapted to the cutting of all garments worn by Ladies. 
The Scientific Tailor System will cut all garments worn by either 
Ladies or Gentlemen. Instructions by 

H. AYERS JACKSON, 

The Inventor and Patentee^ 

202 State St., Rooms 4, 5 and 6, 

CHICAGO, ILL, 



(14) 



Tailoring Institute 

202 State Street, Chicago 

Can always be relied on to furnish the most reliable systems for 
either Ladies' or Gentlemen's Garment Cutting and at the 
lowest possible prices. 

Our "SCIENTIFIC TAILOR SYSTEM" 

Is the only system always successful in placing beautiful, easy, 
artistic garments on either Ladies or Gentlemen without al- 
teration, and is furnished as follows : 

A complete course for new beginners to learn the art of 

Cutting Gentlemen's Garments, - - - $100 oo 

For both Ladies' and Gentlemen's Garments, - - 125 oo 

For Practical Cutters, including system, - - 65 00 

" " " Coat alone, - - - 50 00 

" " " Pants " 20 00 

" " " Vest " — - - - 15 00 



Tailors 5 Squares, Straight and Curvaline Rules and Tools, 

24 inch wide, Reversible Measuring Tapes, Crayons, 

Dressmakers' and Tailors' Tracers, &c, &c. 

HT LOMEST MHRKGT RHT6S, 



(15) 



DRESSMHKERS. 



Our "Franco-Prussian Mode" 

Can always be relied on to cut all garments, worn by Ladies, 
Misses or Children, in any style Dame Fashion may dictate, and 
requiring no alteration. Our French Bias Draft has no equal. 
The Hip and Sleeve Systems, are Invaluable to any 
Dressmaker. 

The price of the "Franco-Prussian Mode" with full 

Instructions - - - - $20 oo 

With full printed Instructions - - - 10 co 

Our Hip Rule Calculations, separate - 5 00 

" " " " Printed Instructions - 3 00 

Our New Sleeve System " " - 2 00 

" " " " full verbal " - - 5 00 



■**#§) 



Our "Lightning Calculator" 

Will be found superior to any Tailor System on the Market for 
Ladies' Tailoring purposes (fhe Mode excepted). The extreme 
rapid cutting and elegant fitting qualities being un- 
equalled, make it a favorite wherever used. Its grading quali- 
ties are unapproachable. It is a strictly actual measure system. 

Price with full Instructions including Basting - |io 00 

" " " printed Instructions including Basting, 5 00 

" of Sleeve System, separate - - - 2 00 

" of Steel, Needle Pointed Tracers, each - -050 
" of Heavy, ^ inch Reversible Tailors' Measuring 

Tapes, - ioc, 3 for 25 

" of Heavy Measuring Belts 20 

And Dressmakers' and Tailors' Supplies at Market Rates. 

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